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Below are the typed copies
of the newspaper cuttings.
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Exciting Voyage.
English Steamer 600 feet
Above Sea Level
It seem impossible that a large ship nowadays could make a
voyage which no other vessel had made before, but the ss
England, which recently entered the Surrey Commercial Dock,
has achieved that distinction. Her officers are all
experienced men, who have visited most of the ports “between
Iquique and Callao round by the south and east”; but their
last trip was the event of their lives.
“ It was the kind of extraordinary trip” said the second
engineer yesterday, “that a man never makes twice in his
life. I don’t expect to see so many novelties again till I
make the voyage ‘downstairs.’ You see when we were at our
destination we were actually 600ft above sea level.”
The ss
England, which is a splendid specimen of an up to date
British tramp steamer owned by Messrs, Fred. Drughorn,
Limited, of London, drawing 20ft, has steamed into the very
centre of the South American Continent, and to within five
miles of San Antonio Falls, near the Bolivian frontier. In
fact she got within 700 miles of the Andes going west from
Para.
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Voyage up
the Amazon
After a short stay in Para the England continued her voyage
up the Amazon to Serpa. Near there she entered the
tributary, which at the juncture is so vast an expanse of
water that it looks like the sea. Capt Bennett found as much
as 60 fathoms in the main stream. With the native pilot they
commenced the experiment of taking a big vessel up the
Madeira. Though usually deep and wide, that river narrowed
at times till the jungle brushed the England’s and sides,
and they only had 3ft of water below the keel in places
where the surface of the water was broken by snags of rocks.
The propeller in the shallow places disturbed the rotting
vegetation on the riverbed, and then the combined heat and
stench was unbearable.
“The pilots were perfection. I think they
would have undertaken to navigate the ship over a field if
the dew was heavy enough. They watched the eccentricities of
the great logs floating down which we were always fearing
would smash our propeller blades, for facts about the
stream, and every dimple in the current had something to say
to them.”
Navigation was ruled by the inspection of the next few feet
ahead, so the vessel moved at only 4 knots, and anchored
every night. In about nine days they reached Porto Velho.
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Brushing
the Jungle
In navigating the Madeira River, a tributary of the Amazon,
the England some times had the jungle growth brushing her
rigging on either side, bringing down leaves and twigs upon
her decks. Yesterday she was off again for further
adventures, but a “Leader” representative had the good
fortune to learn something of her last astonishing voyage
before she went down river.
It is generally supposed the romance of ships, so far as
modern commerce is concerned, is a fake of authors, and that
Captain Kettle never lived in any sense, though he makes
jolly interesting reading. Well I interviewed Capt Kettle
yesterday (writes a “Leader” representative) and can
guarantee his absolute life-likeness, more astonishing
still, and better than anything of Kettle’s, the story of
Capt. W. R. Bennett of the England, reminded me of the
tropical passages in that most magical of modern English
narrative, Conrod’s “ Man Who Knew”.
One can understand the easy supremacy of the British
merchant service while owners can count on shipmasters like
the England’s skipper. The sublime confidence and complete
knowledge which got a big steamer through uncharted
difficulties and brought all the crew through a malarial
voyage without the loss of a hand, is not easily matched. |
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Fight with
Nature
Last year the England loaded railway material
for Porto Velho. This cannot be verified by looking for that
port on the map. It isn’t there. Strenuous American
enterprise is only trying to get it there. When it is there
it will be a town on the Upper Madeira, 1,600 miles from the
Atlantic, and tapping, by railway to La Paz and thence by
rail across the Andes to Antofagasta, much of the trade
which now goes via Cape Horn. It is the Madeira Mamore
Railway which is being built. The engineers have already
laid about 30 miles of it in a jungle where they rarely see
the sun. Once British enterprise attempted it, but the
pioneers were conquered by floods, fevers, heat, insects,
alligators, and jaguars, and other dulcet consequences of
places near the line. They cut a clearing into the forest
about 800 miles from Serpa at the junction of the Madeira
with the Amazon. But the fever and the forest won. The
invaders were driven away, what was left of them, and gross
primeval luxuriance poured back in a swift green flood over
the bones, the work and the stores. The wilderness grew
quiet again.
But direct communications from the Atlantic to the Pacific
was badly wanted, and Americans have now commenced the work
again. They never let their supply of quinine fall below
1,000 lb, and have established a private cemetery for the
use of the staff, to show they mean to stop any way; and
they pour petroleum on the water courses to kill the
mosquitoes. But as to the latter, as was said pathetically
on the ship yesterday, “you might as well squirt weed killer
into the forest to kill the trees. A little vessel which
followed us up lost 11 of her crew through malignant
malaria.” |
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The Crew’s
Amusements
“ Most of the staff were seasoned men, but in spite of the
heat they were like a lot of boys again with the novelties
about them. Something bizarre happened, every day to keep us
interested. One day an anaconda swimming along side was
noosed and we got the big serpent on the deck. I’ve never
been anywhere that so swarmed and crawled with all sorts of
life. The heat and the moisture spawned it everywhere.
“ The swarms of giant and brilliant butterflies in that
Porto Velho clearing were astonishing. One of our men got a
box full of them and a few whacking hairy spiders and sold
them for £5 at Rotterdam (?).
“One night I thought a bird was in the cabin. It banged
about and kept up a constant whistling. Then I found it was
a beetle half as big as a shoe brush.
“The forest our skipper forbade us to go into, as a matter
of safety. It was dark as the gloom in a cathedral beneath
the trees. So we tried fishing from the deck. We caught
nothing till one of the shore staff showed us the the right
method. He fired a dynamite cartridge and such a collection
of prehistoric monsters as came up I never saw. One big
brute was new even to the Indians. It was cased in armour
and from each armour plate projected a big spike. It was the
wonder of the camp till it went bad, and even then it was
wonderful.”
The
England stayed there a month and then returned to Europe.
She leaves again today, and shortly is proceeding again to
the South American forest. |
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Every-day
Burials
Porto Velho is still not much more than a cutting which lets
the light into the forest. Its most important building is
its hospital. Every day about five of the native labourers
were buried, for human life is there as yet hardly
supportable, malaria and black water fever being the usual
ailments. All necessities there are at famine prices, and
the deck hands and firemen of the England realising their
opportunities, held a regular market on board. “They went to
an extreme in selling their clothes”, said an officer. “I
know they made a lot of money by the prolonged ‘drunks’ they
had when they got back to civilisation. But I’ve never had
to work such a scandalously dressed crowd before”.
In such a vivid
description of Porto Velho, Mr Crew the chief engineer, said
it was the last place you would expect to see a big ship.
“It is the centre of a continent and the absolute tropics.
I’ve been practically everywhere, but it was a novelty to me
to be kept awake in a steamer’s cabin by the roaring of
jaguars in the forest out side. They were a perfect nuisance
at times. No less than five orchid hunters have been lost in
that neighbourhood of late, and the Indians say it is the
jaguars.” |
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